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tiesim
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 407
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 Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 8:39 pm Post subject: PowerTap death / powermeter advice |
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Hi guys, after a bit of advice on power meters.
I’ve had a PowerTap pro wireless for about 6 years now, It’s built into a cosmic carbone wheel and it’s on its way out. I sent it off to cyclepowermeters for a service and they have said it’s dying. I can pay £120 for it to be serviced but they expect it will continue to die and last another year or so, or they have said they can upgrade and replace it’s internals with the G3 internals for £355.
Anyone have any thoughts on options? I’m thinking it’s dead money £120 servicing it.
If that’s ruled out then it’s a question of do go with the internals upgrade to G3 or should I actually go a different route for power completely.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks
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Iaincognito
Joined: 05 Nov 2007
Posts: 96
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:02 am Post subject: |
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Tough one. I have the same wheel set so will have this dilemna in the future.
I had my old elite+ wheel updated to G3 under warranty and it’s a much
Better system, so I think I’d go for that. If I changed to a different power meter, I’d go for different wheels as well, so that’s a big cost.
I’m waiting for May to see if the IQ2 power meter is any good, but if it is that is an option for about £120. I’m not ordering one through Kickstarter or before it’s been reviewed.
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jibberjim
Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 8392
Location: Kingston
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 8:18 am Post subject: |
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How are either of your rim brake wheels still alive after 6 years of being the only power meter, how much are you riding?
I'd say 355 + wheel rebuild is a fair old cost, and you could pick up a new power2max for not that much more depending on existing cranks, and can certainly normally find as cheap options second hand.
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Chrace
Joined: 28 Apr 2010
Posts: 2910
Location: Eating a Yorkie
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:50 am Post subject: |
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| jibberjim wrote: | How are either of your rim brake wheels still alive after 6 years of being the only power meter, how much are you riding?
I'd say 355 + wheel rebuild is a fair old cost, and you could pick up a new power2max for not that much more depending on existing cranks, and can certainly normally find as cheap options second hand. |
Indeed. I found a P2M Classic for 250. I think it's time for a change tiesim.
Crank based, sure. Pedal based, maybe (depending on cleat requirements). Wheel based, nope. I want to be able to change as required.
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stenard
Joined: 04 Sep 2013
Posts: 2063
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:08 am Post subject: |
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| Chrace wrote: | | Crank based, sure. Pedal based, maybe (depending on cleat requirements). Wheel based, nope. I want to be able to change as required. |
This is where I sit. When the P1's came out I was initially a bit frustrated I'd gone down a P2M route, which when I started increasing the number of bikes meant a second power meter. Yet, with the issues I've seen with all forms of pedal based power meters from those around my club, I'm now happy with the choice I made.
I have literally never done anything to either of my P2M's, other than change batteries when required.
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tiesim
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Iaincognito wrote: | Tough one. I have the same wheel set so will have this dilemna in the future.
I had my old elite+ wheel updated to G3 under warranty and it’s a much
Better system, so I think I’d go for that. If I changed to a different power meter, I’d go for different wheels as well, so that’s a big cost. |
Yeah I’m not keen on wheel shopping right now so that’s a big factor
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tiesim
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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| jibberjim wrote: | How are either of your rim brake wheels still alive after 6 years of being the only power meter, how much are you riding?
I'd say 355 + wheel rebuild is a fair old cost, and you could pick up a new power2max for not that much more depending on existing cranks, and can certainly normally find as cheap options second hand. |
Not a sarcastic question but maybe stupid, how do I know if my wheels are done with? The hub has had bearing replacement done twice and will again in the upgrade to g3 and it has been trued twice. Other than that, it goes round and the brakes stop me crashing, so is there anything I need to look at to check if they are ok? I ride around 2500-3500 miles pa mainly turbo. How long should a wheelswt last?
I’m leaning towards the rebuild / upgrade to g3 as I don’t think I need to replace the wheels and if I go another route I’ll still need to maintain the bearings in the wheel.
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tiesim
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 407
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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| stenard wrote: | | Chrace wrote: | | Crank based, sure. Pedal based, maybe (depending on cleat requirements). Wheel based, nope. I want to be able to change as required. |
This is where I sit. When the P1's came out I was initially a bit frustrated I'd gone down a P2M route, which when I started increasing the number of bikes meant a second power meter. Yet, with the issues I've seen with all forms of pedal based power meters from those around my club, I'm now happy with the choice I made.
I have literally never done anything to either of my P2M's, other than change batteries when required. |
I ride my TT bike mainly, winter hack comes out max 10 times pa as I tuebo mostly. So swapping isn’t an issue for me. Leaning towards the upgrade as I think it’s cheapest long term option unless anyone the wheels are shot but I haven’t noticed anything to indicate that. Is there anything I should be looking for?
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stenard
Joined: 04 Sep 2013
Posts: 2063
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Most wheels have rim wear indicators, like tyres. Little inlaid circles on the rim. If they've gone smooth, then so much of the rim has worn away through braking that the structural integrity is likely compromised.
I say "most". I just looked at my wheels, and my shimano set don't. So if you don't see any, don't immediately get concerned!
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jibberjim
Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 8392
Location: Kingston
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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| stenard wrote: | Most wheels have rim wear indicators, like tyres. Little inlaid circles on the rim. If they've gone smooth, then so much of the rim has worn away through braking that the structural integrity is likely compromised.
I say "most". I just looked at my wheels, and my shimano set don't. So if you don't see any, don't immediately get concerned! |
mainly turbo certainly helps of course, as you're not braking. My quick google didn't say if cosmic carbones had a wear indicator - or indeed which ones, just realised they could have been one of the full carbon versions where wear is also less of a problem (you destroy the pads instead, and can't brake anyway) If there's not a wear indicator, get some calipers out and compare the depth of the deepest bit with the least worn outside bit. There should be not much at all, less than 1mm probably.
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Jorgan
Joined: 12 Nov 2007
Posts: 18226
Location: alles was ich bin, alles was ich war
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| Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:11 am Post subject: |
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I can vouch for the 'fit & forget' nature of the Power2Max. A battery will last me a year on my TT bike, no sweat.
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JaRok2300
Joined: 01 May 2014
Posts: 461
Location: Worcester, UK
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| Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:13 am Post subject: |
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I've got a Powertap G3 and a P2M, bought both second hand and have never had any trouble with either.
Got the G3 first and used to swap it between bikes until I got some deep section wheels for the TT so then got the P2M to leave on there. Tested them back to back a couple of times and they're close enough for my purposes so G3 lives on road bike permanently and P2M on TT whether outdoors or turbo.
In the summer I tend to ride both bikes almost alternately, depending on the session I'm doing so even pedals would be a bit of a pain to swap every ride and I'm also put off my the reliability issues.
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TriSam
Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 1300
Location: Tunbridge Wells
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| Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Jorgan wrote: | | I can vouch for the 'fit & forget' nature of the Power2Max. A battery will last me a year on my TT bike, no sweat. |
I reckon it could last a lot longer than a year if you're not sweating 
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JamieMcP
Joined: 01 Feb 2006
Posts: 4799
Location: Edinburgh
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| Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Jorgan wrote: | | I can vouch for the 'fit & forget' nature of the Power2Max. A battery will last me a year on my TT bike, no sweat. |
I will vouch for this, after having an Ergomo and going through 3 quarks (2 replaced under warranty) My P2M has worked a dream.
I have now jinxed it and it will break at the weekend.
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hammerer
Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Posts: 16628
Location: Right Next Door To Hell
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| Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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| stenard wrote: | | Chrace wrote: | | Crank based, sure. Pedal based, maybe (depending on cleat requirements). Wheel based, nope. I want to be able to change as required. |
This is where I sit. When the P1's came out I was initially a bit frustrated I'd gone down a P2M route, which when I started increasing the number of bikes meant a second power meter. Yet, with the issues I've seen with all forms of pedal based power meters from those around my club, I'm now happy with the choice I made.
I have literally never done anything to either of my P2M's, other than change batteries when required. |
Never had one problem with my P1's and neither has anyone I know who's bought them. they just work. Battery life is ok, 60hrs or so, so not major problem.
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