 |
|
View previous topic :: View next topic
|
Author |
Message |
stenard
Joined: 04 Sep 2013 Posts: 2063
|
Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 2:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
hammerer wrote: | Never had one problem with my P1's and neither has anyone I know who's bought them. they just work. Battery life is ok, 60hrs or so, so not major problem. |
I guess it's hit and miss. I know three people in my club who have them. All have had problems. One the pedal spindle stripped itself clean out of the pedal. Another, the left pedal (which is the master) just died and had to be replaced. Had it been the right, he could have at least continued using the left as a single sided version. Can't remember what happened to the third.
The first person also stripped one of her crank threads by constant swapping over, although I accept that's more user error and not specifically P1 related. But it is an additional risk of the regular switching that would come with pedal based.
_________________ My blog: https://stenardstuff.wordpress.com/
Random stuff and race reports
|
|
Back to top |
|
 |
big vern
Joined: 30 Jun 2008 Posts: 343
|
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 11:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
I had the exact same wheel upgraded to g3 internals (about 2 years ago), mines 6 or 7 years old now, never missed a beat since the upgrade, torque offset still the same.
Its a rock solid wheel and moire robust than any stages PM ive had on other bikes. If the wheel itself is in good nick I'd say do the the upgrade to g3...csaba at paligap (if hes still there, pronounced chubba) is good to speak with
|
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Andy916
Joined: 08 Oct 2011 Posts: 712 Location: Cambridge
|
Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 4:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
My serviced G3 in a lightly-used Cosmic Carbone 52mm al rim cost £350 in 2016 and has worked perfectly, swapped between two 10-sp bikes and one 11-sp. I don't use it all the time so it doesn't see massive or winter mileage.
My take on this was to buy rock solid old tech for not much money, and to keep an eye on the new market/tech/prices
_________________ 2016: Triathlon X Windemere, Monster Ely half, Evergreen 228 Chamonix
2015: Wasdale X, IM Wales, Rimini half, Ely half, Strathpuffer 24hr
Previous: IM Lanza, IM UK, Forestman, Outlaw, Mallorca half, XTERRA, IoM e2e, Dart 10k, 3PYR
|
|
Back to top |
|
 |
tiesim
Joined: 22 Jun 2010 Posts: 407
|
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 8:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hi guys
An update and further assistance please if you would be so kind.
I had the powertap serviced & not upgraded. It came back but they hadn’t trued the wheel as I had asked. So I took it to LBS and they took 1 look at it and said sorry we won’t touch it as it looked done for. I persuaded them to take a look and they confirmed it’s not true because the rim is cracking and the spokes are pulling through. (Cosmic carbone SL bought approx 2012/13).
So I’m a little peed off cycle power meters didn’t comment on this when I had specifically asked them to true the wheel and they just focused on the power meter, if I had known the wheel was done for then I could have completely changed power & wheel set up. But we move on. (Never had issue with them before so benefit of the doubt given).
Anyway, I now have a working power tap in a dead wheel. I can continue to turbo on it as it’s clamped in so I’m safe but I won’t be racing on it again. It’s bloody noisy on the turbo and my wife specifically mentioned this lol!!
So moving forward I want to consider 1st putting the pt in a new aero carbon wheel. Any recommendations? Buy a wheel have it chopped up and rebuilt like I did with the cosmic cRbone or can I get an aero carbon deep rim & a wheel built ? I can get another complete cosmic carbone for circa £400 and it will cost iro £100 to have the PT out in. It is a waste thou just chopping it up straight away.
I’m 200lb so need a strong wheel.
Second option is buy the cosmic and go different route for power when racing and have the PT put into a training wheel. That’s likely to cost me £400 for the cosmic, £150 for the training powertap wheel build and then £400+ on power meter for racing (I’ve not looked at other power options so open for advice on that too but it’s not my preferred option right now).
Thoughts / advice please guys. Thanks
|
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|
Share
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|